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"> Andy Perdue/Great Northwest Wine Wind Rose Cellars in Sequim focuses on Italian varieties, including Primitivo.

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Evidence would indicate that Croatia could be the cradle of wine grapes, with cultivation of "vitis vinifera" dating back some 8,000 years. Perhaps Croatia's greatest contribution to wines we enjoy today is Zinfandel.

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In fact, experts now believe Zinfandel and Primitivo are clones of an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kastelanski. In the vineyard, Zin and Primitivo are not identical, and our federal government recognizes them as separate varieties.

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Ray Isle ( @islewine on Twitter ) is Food & Wine's executive wine editor. We trust his every cork pop and decant – and the man can sniff out a bargain to boot. Take it away, Ray.

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Being a wine critic, of course, this prediction chilled me to my very bones. Apparently, despite the fact that the world’s vineyards produce some 2.8 billion cases of wine each year, we want more than that. We’re a wine-crazed bunch, we humans.

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  But before the riots in the street start, I should also point out that several other financial institutions weighed in just the other day, more or less saying that Morgan Stanley’s report was so much hogwash (if you wash your hogs with wine, that is; not many people do, but it does make them an attractive purple color). These other financial experts note that wine production in 2013 is up, that we used to be swimming in a lake of surplus wine and now we are not (a good thing), and that all this vinous doom and gloom is mighty darn premature.

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In far western Sonoma County, Porter-Bass Vineyard sits between two ridge tops in a loop of the Russian River. Photo: Preston Gannaway, Special To The Chronicle In far western Sonoma County, Porter-Bass Vineyard sits between two...

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Luke Bass is the winemaker at Porter-Bass Vineyard & Winery, located 9 miles from the ocean in Guerneville. Photo: Preston Gannaway, Special To The Chronicle Luke Bass is the winemaker at Porter-Bass Vineyard & Winery,...

Vineyards In India

Leaves on Zinfandel vines show tinges of fall color at the Porter-Bass Vineyard in Guerneville. Photo: Preston Gannaway, Special To The Chronicle Leaves on Zinfandel vines show tinges of fall color at the...

Wineries In India



Politico is reporting that this week Washington, DC, bars are jam-packed with furloughed federal workers, taking advantage of happy-hour specials inspired by the government shutdown. There’s also a rumor that members of Congress were visibly tipsy in the despair-ridden final hours leading up to the shutdown…but I fail to see how that’s different from any other Monday night in DC. Anyway, now that inaction is fully cemented to our nation’s collective feet and there’s ample time to be spent drinking away the days, here are my picks of the ten best wines to drink during the shutdown.

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wines, made by the California’s Zin-pioneering Rosenblum family – the ABVs are all at about 15 percent or higher (and the wines are mighty tasty). But there are plenty of California Zins that exceed 16 percent alcohol, such as Outpost . Unfortunately, if you don’t believe the alcohol percentage printed on the label you can’t call the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau ( TTB.gov ). They’re currently closed.

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Texas Hill Country is the star of southern winemaking, and there are some very good wines produced here. But those are the exception to the rule. Much Like Sen. Ted Cruz, it’s apparent that Hill Country wines aren’t quite seasoned and polished just yet, and more than a few can leave a bad aftertaste. Sure, they have potential, but similar to Rep. Neugebauer, you get the sense that there’s a bit of professional delusion  if anyone believes these wines are among the best in America.

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Winegrowers commonly plant vineyards on hillsides, but the wineries Matt Kramer presented in his seminar are pushing the limits, growing grapes on some of the steepest, most daunting slopes in the world. They are also, Kramer contends, making some of the most exciting new wines being produced today.

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To showcase the vineyards, Kramer poured three wines from a pair of Old World regions in the midst of forging new identities: Spain’s Ribeira Sacra zone and Portugal’s famous Douro Valley. “These three wines represent a revolution,” he said.

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Ribeira Sacra has a long history of growing grapes. Hundreds of years ago, monks carved terraces into the steep hillsides along the local rivers, but many of the vineyards were later abandoned or divided into parcels of a few rows. (Many locals left the remote area and its challenging terrain to become shepherds, but retained a few vines for personal use and would return to farm and harvest them.) The first wine, Dominio do Bibei Ribeira Sacra Lalama 2009, came from a local couple who pieced together nearly 111 acres of land—which required more than 3,000 deed transactions—and built a modern winery.

Winery In India



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